You probably already know about Charmant. Located in the French Concession, it's a hub, a cornerstone, an institution, a second office, a spontaneous meeting spot, and with an eclectic menu, a cure for indecision. It's one of the things we think about when we're away from Shanghai, and one of the reasons we don't want to leave this city.

Years ago, we'd grown fond of Bellagio. The well-managed staff and smart, modern take on cosmopolitan Chinese comfort food was always good and sometimes divine. Then, a place opened around the corner from our home that looked and acted just like Bellagio (including the short-haired waitresses) that had seemed to photo-copy the menu from Bellagio. The owner shrugged and said "no relation" and left it at that. Whatever. It was called Charmant, and it was good.

Our first obsession was the peanut butter smoothie (26rmb). And we mean obsession. Like ordering it every day of the week during summer -- sometimes twice a day, for lunch and after dinner. In winter, we discovered Charmant's hot chocolate (28rmb). It's the best in town. Seriously. No contest. It's like a rich dark chocolate bar melted in a mug. When it disappeared from the menu last year, we filed a formal complaint with the management, and started a campaign, getting our friends to ask for it every time. Finally, one day, after pestering them for months, we walked in and the staff all had big smiles. The manager said, "Sir, we got the hot chocolate back on the menu!" I'm forever grateful. Don't order it before bed, though, it will keep you up.

Speaking of dessert, there's also the "ice mountain," a Taiwanese treat (29rmb). Personally we've never understood the appeal of these, but after trying Charmant's a few times, we began to appreciate it. Theirs is also probably the best in town, with quality toppings, and a sane level of sweetness.

But Charmant is not all about desserts. The menu is mostly "eclectic urban Chinese" with a Taiwanese bent. And there are a few well-executed Asian and Western dishes, like our favorite hangover cure, the ham and grilled cheese sandwich (35rmb). Order it with a large "foamy green ice tea" (20rmb, 25rmb with bubbles) and you're set.

Lunch sets are good for solo dining, running 36 to 48rmb. The Singapore-style Hainan chicken rice (possibly another "best in town", 48rmb) and Japanese beef curry (38rmb) are favorites.

It's difficult to pick out highlights from a menu so diverse, and we've tried most of them over the last three years. The stir-fried broccoli (24rmb) -- I know that sounds boring -- is the perfect 'green,' and the delicate broth it's served with reminds us that healthy, comfort food can be delicious and hit the spot. It's worth mentioning because this is the standard all other restaurants should follow. Other good vegetable choices include "catch of the day" with stewed cabbage and dried scallops (39rmb), lettuce roots as an appetizer (12rmb), and the dragon beans with a mountain of minced garlic (28rmb).

We'll fire off a few other must-haves: three-cup chicken (48rmb), cod fish with "soy curd" marinade (let it cook at the table for a while to concentrate the flavor -- 49rmb), Sichuan chicken cold vegetables (topped with wasabi and peanut-sesame sauce, the way 'fusion' should be done -- 20rmb), pineapple with shrimp donuts covered in mayonnaise (yes! -- 49rmb), minced shrimp with lettuce wraps (49rmb), steamed clams with loofah melon (42rmb), or the pickled radish omelet (24rmb).

They already deserve a perfect 10, but they get bonus points for having brown rice as an option (expat Californians rejoice!), staying open to 4am, and they usually play good music, like classic French pop, Kahimi Kare, The Kinks, or Royksopp. We are, however, dead sick of the Nora Jones album, which seems to have spread like a virus to every cafe in town. Make it stop!

Charmant has opened several other locations in other cities, including Suzhou, Beijing, and Tianjin. We hope they continue to expand!

Charmant
Phone 6431 8107, 6431 8027
Address: 1/F, 1414 Huai Hai Zhong Road